Beerlao and Bananas

Random internet cafe, Koh Samui

I have had quite the realization over the last few days...that is that a solo traveler never really travels alone. I've met so many people over the last week and change. I've only met one other American, if you can believe that! Mostly Brits and Aussies, and a few Germans here and there. So..what of the last few days? Feels like I've lived a lifetime in the last week...

First - about Laos. Amazing. I would highly recommend the small area that I saw to anyone willing to live the simple life for a few days. I took a slow boat (note to self: when Lao people say slow boat, they really mean slow boat) down the Mekong river. The Mekong ranks (I think) as one of the 10 biggest rivers in the world. I caught the boat at Chiang Khong, an entry point into Laos. We crossed the water by ferry (my first border crossing by boat) and went through immigration to get into Lao. There were about 80 people on the slow boat and it was definitely not the most comfortable 14 hours of my life. However, there were people getting on the boat at various points selling Beerlao and bananas.....'Hello, Madame, you want Banana? Why you buy her Beerlao and not my banana? My banana good, you like. Only 2000 kip' I wish they exported Beerlao because it is fantastic. I'm glad they don't export Lao whisky, though - not quite as fantastic!

Most of the travelers on the boat were foreigners, and most of those were British or other European. I met several groups of travelers...a few young guys from Sweden (and by young I mean 19, 20 years old). I also met a French guy who was entirely unpleasant and asked me with a snigger how I liked George Bush. I have to say that I've come to expect a negative reaction when I tell people I'm American. It seems the world these days hates Americans, which is a shame, but altogether true based on my experience. I've gotten into several political discussions with Brits, Canadians. the Frenchy I'll call Pissy Pilar...even some Germans on the state of affairs in America today, and they've ended with me being entirely frustrated and more often than not wanting to dish out a nasty word or two. The most interesting conversation was with a Canadian, who claimed that the US was "a shit country fully of stupid people". Interesting, especially since Canada is our little brother (I would like to slap that particular little brother upside his rapidly balding head). If I didn't like Vancouver BC so much and hadn't met so many nice people from there, I would certainly have written it off. Anyway, not to dwell on the negative, but regardless of one's political affiliation or voting history, I'd say that most everyone I know who's American is proud of our country in at least some fashion...and thus it's hard to face constant bad looks and ridicule for the decisions of our government. I'll enjoy talking to those of you more politically inclined when I get back!

Back to Laos...the slow boat ride consisted of a very primitive boat, lots of people, and beautiful scenery. There are very few villages on the shores of the Mekong, and of those, I'd say 1% have electricity and hot water. We were constantly seeing people fishing, monks washing their robes in the water, children playing...but I didn't see any other signs of civilization, other than some primitive huts on the water and an occasional fishing pole stuck in the rocky shore. The weather in Laos was great...sunny, yet not too hot. The sunsets and sunrises were beautiful as the whole country is on fire now (the burning season) - so lots of pinks and purples, but also a lot of ash. Definitely worth the trip, even in the burning season.

We anchored the first night at a place called Pak Beng. Very primitive town. My friend Stella from Germany and I shared a room (Stella is on month 6 of a 7 month journey around the world). We ate with about 20 other travelers from our boat at this amazing Indian restaurant...and then had a few beers before the town shut down at 9:30. There was a concert going on when we were there, so people were in the street (not streets, street - only one) until 1ish or so, but I was long asleep in my hot little room by that time. I'm getting old. I figure when the electricity shuts down, it's time for me to shut down too!

Next day we finished the journey at Luang Prabang, where I spent two nights. Luang Prabang is one of my favorite places on earth (although honestly I've loved everywhere I've been). It's a very small town with around 7-10 thousand people I believe. Not much to do there, as once again the restaurants and bars close at 11:30...but, there were lots of travelers to share a beer with on the veranda of the guesthouse in which we stayed. Luang Prabang is amazing. The people are so nice, the town itself is beautiful, quiet, generally mellow...and the scenery is top notch. The prices are incredibly cheap as well! Here's an example - my friend Jane (28 from England, on month 12 of a 12 month journey), Stella and I had dinner at a local restaurant. We each had three cocktails, a soda, bottles of water (can't drink any of the water in Laos or Thailand), full entrees, and an appetizer. For the three of us, it was less than $10!!! Laos takes kip, baht, and dollars, so I left a generous tip and still came out paying about $3 for my meal. Amazing.

Jane and I explored Luang Prabang during that day...we went up to a local waterfall and hiked around, waded, generally played. We saw a pretty bad motorcycle accident on the way back, but other than that it was the perfect day. When we were driving up there (we hired a tuk tuk for the day, about $15 total), we were getting splashed by the local children. It's Lao/Thai newyear in the next week, and the custom is to have water fights, splash people with water, and generally keep a festive spirit of debauchery for the weeks around the new year itself. Lots of fun, but I wasn't dry once the whole time I was in Lao.

I parted with my German and Brittish traveling companions yesterday morning, and flew from Laos to Bangkok, then Bangkok to Koh Samui. It's somewhat sad to leave people you've traveled with for a few days...you know that chances are you'll fall out of touch, not see each other again...but I guess that's the lifecycle of a traveler, always meeting new people, taking away a few friends, and generally enjoying the moment and the company you have while you have it.

Koh Samui...so far not much of an impression. I'm staying in an area called Big Buddha beach, which is the third or 4th most popular beach on the island. I did it on purpose - don't want the crowds of grumpy tourists, the high prices, the hustle and bustle of a crowded beach. Would much rather have a beer with a new friend and get to bed early, to make the most of my day tomorrow. Once again, I guess I'm getting old.

I'm staying in a place called Shambala...it's wonderful. I have my own bungalow, a hundred yards or so from the beach. It's run by an English couple, and I would highly recommend it to anyone wanting a bit of a respite from tourists and crowds. I awoke to the sound of firecrackers this morning (the pop pop pop of the black cats brought me back to Pyro-Gabe days)...and decided to start my day by catching up, having breakfast, and generally relaxing. The glory of travel - not much to do but what you want!

The plan is to stay another night on Samui, and take a ferry up to Koh Phagnan tomorrow for a few days of celebration (Thai new year, and the full moon party). Thais take every occassion they can to celebrate, but this party is renowned the world over. I'm meeting up with a South African girl I met in Chiang Mai to share accomodations - should be fun!

A note about traveling alone - I love it. I don't know that I'd plan an extended vacation any other way. I have the ability to change my plans (aka Laos); have the ability to stay somewhere for as long as I want, and generally can make my trip everything that I want it to be! I would definitely recommend that everyone does this at least once in their life (as most of you have, so I'm preaching to the choir). I just hope to be able to take a more extended trip in the future...now I just have to figure out how to save up and be able to take 6 months or a year off of work!

Hope you all are well. Thanks for your emails! XOXOXOX

Cheers!
Genevieve