Me again. I had a pretty cool update all typed out yesterday and somehow I got distracted and deleted it before sending. Blasted. I'll try to make this one compare.
It's 9:30 PM on Saturday and I'm in another internet cafe, this time in Chania, Crete, killing time before dinner. This cafe serves booze, though, which means that the 15 year old boys are a bit rowdier. I sitll don't know what they're saying or playing, but my gut tells me that they're probably not on top of their game as much as they would be if they weren't drinking ouzo. Just to set the scene - Bon Jovi is playing on the radio and a Greek man with a long rat tail (remember those from the 80's?) is sitting to my left. He's enjoying his 14th or 15th cigarette since I've been here. I will likely die of secondhand smoke in this very cafe.
I arrived in Crete two days ago. I took the ferry from Santorini...by ferry, I mean high-speed people mover reminiscent of something in Water World. It was WINDY when we left Santorini...which was fun for about 10 minutes in the boat. I should have known it would be an adventure when it took the captain of the boat 4 tries to dock. People were laughing and screaming at the waves to start out with...huge rollers that really tossed the boat around. After the initial 10 minutes, it got a bit dicey. Women were screaming, babies were crying, and people were vomiting left and right. I counted 13 people in my section alone that lost their lunch - And I think there were at least 4 or 5 sections. Luckily, due to my days as a pirate, I was immune. Actually, I can sleep through anything, so I closed my eyes and was out in about 4 minutes. I arrived in Crete rested and ready to meander to my hotel. I had a two hour dinner at about 10pm (I love the Greek tradition of eating long, late dinners), and ended the night wandering around the town squares taking pictures of ancient stuff. No idea what most of it is, but I'm sure it's been along for 2 or 3 thousand times as long as I have. Pretty cool.
Bon Jovi has been replaced by Poison. Love it.
Today I took the pop can on roller skates to Samaria Gorge and to the Libyan Sea (once again, doesn't seem right when I write it, but that's what my book told me - Southern Crete). I rented another car (the aforementioned pop can on roller skates) in Iraklio (or Heraklion) when I arrived into Crete. It's crap. I hate little cars. I hope never, ever, ever to have to drive one again. That said, this ancient place is the land of little streets...which in turn means it's the land of little cars. Which I'm ok with, when I have to navigate the ancient streets here. It does get quite tiring trying to make it anywhere quickly...but, on a good note, this thing can corner on rails. I haven't given it the priviledge of a nickname as of yet, but if I were, I would likely call it 'Death Trap' or possibly even 'My own personal hell'. It does the job of getting me around, so I can't complain too much.
From Iraklio, I drove west on the coastal road to the town of Chania. The hamsters were tired when I arrived, so I ditched the car in some random neighborhood, put my pack on my back, and started walking. This is a pretty cool little place...I'm staying in the historic old harbor (actually, everything is historic here, so I if I don't say it, it's implied). I'm in the most funky old room...it's in a house directly next to a church, and there are ants. Everywhere there are ants. The upside is that they take care of the breadcrumbs that I drop...and it takes them a while to climb the stairs to where I sleep (it's almost like a loft apartment). So, after I kill the troops climbing the stairs, it takes at least 20 minutes for them to replenish their army. Just enough time for me to fall asleep. I've had some weird dreams, though, all about picnics and moving sandwiches with hundreds of tiny black legs. Back to the journey of today...
Samaria Gorge is amazing. Absolutely breathtaking. It's been rainy on Crete since I got here, which is a bummer for the Seattle-ite, but at the same time it's allowed me to actually get out and do things instead of finding the closest beach. Anyway, the rain causes mist, which causes amazing pictures. I've been cracking myself up all day because I took a Diane Fausey (spelling?) style picture, except I've entitled it 'Goats in the Mist'. Maybe it's only funny to me. Man there are a ton of goats here. And goatherds. I took a video of them - I'll send it or post it at some point. It's pretty ridiculous. I was worried that they would stampede the Death Trap and I would die in a tragic Goat meets Opel Agila (the brand of the car, I think) accident; however, I'm safe. Escaped death once again.
After Samaria Gorge, I drove north a bit, then caught the southern road to Sougia (soo-yah). What an amazing little place to get lost. No post office, but of course bars, tavernas, cafes, and a beach. I had lunch and found that I still haven't tired of fish, cheese, and Heineken...then loaded up the Death Trap and headed back to Chania.
The route to and from Samaria Gorge and Sougia was filled with hills, tangerine groves, vineyards, and lots and lots of photo ops. I didn't taste a tangerine...although I wanted to do that more than I"ve wanted to ride a donkey. I didn't want to push my luck stealing from the groves. Who knows what kind of long range guns those 90 year old Greek women hide under their smocks.
Tonight, I caught the sunset on the water in the Old Harbour. Another breathtaking experience. I take them for granted when I'm in Seattle...but for some reason when I'm on vacation they're a major highlight of the day. Tomorrow I'm heading back east toward the town of Rethymia (spelling, once again, is awful). I'll hopefully catch some sun there and visit a winery or two...and then head back to Iraklio early on Monday to see the ancient ruins of Knossos and then fly to Istanbul. As sad as it is, I can't make it to Egypt from here. It's like trying to find the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow - no easy way to do it, and you're not sure you really want to piss of the leprechaun when you get there anyway. So, it will have to wait for another time. Istanbul for Monday through Thurs...back to Athens on Thurs and Friday...and then Manhattan for the weekend before I head back to work. Vacations go too fast!
Hope you all are well. I'll try to send one last update and a link to my pictures. Take care!
Cheers - Genevieve
Saturday, May 19, 2007
Wednesday, May 16, 2007
Hello from Greece, Volume 2
Hello again! It's now 11 PM on a Wednesday night and I'm again battling with the mini shift keys of these computers in Greece. Too little to compain about, so I'm complaining about the shift keys. On to the vacation...
First, thank you for your emails. It's so nice to read about what's going on at home and to hear that you all hate me. Very reassuring. :)
Today was an excellent day. I spent the morning sleeping (seems I can't get up before 10 AM here) and the day diving. I dove with a Norwiegen (vacation spelling rules) and an Aussie...both very fun divers. It's been a while since I dived (parenthetical expressions, but no, Allie, it's not dove, it's dived....word) last (in Florida when I visited Ann!) so I was a bit nervous. I almost panicked myself to death, but at the end of it was ok. Damn salt water. Get's in your eyes and your nose and your throat and makes you want to surface too fast. But all was well once I told myself that I couldn't afford to die in Greece, so I decided to figure it out instead. And thank God I did, because I just love swimming with the fishes...in a decidedly non-mob sort of way.
I've spent the last several days wandering around the streets, beaches, steps, and hills of Santorini. I've seen some amazing sunsets; met some amazing and finally non-Canadian people; had some amazing wine; and eaten some excellent food. Never have I consumed so much lamb in my life. Or seen so few clouds. Literally, today was my first Greek cloud. Amazing.
Tomorrow I plan to wake up early (maybe 10) and go to the beach. I leave on a ferry bound for Crete at 5pm...and from there it's anyone's guess. I'm getting restless and everything is so close here...so I'm considering Egypt, Turkey, and Italy. I wish there was an easy way to get to all three! But, alas, I may have to narrow it to two of them.
Updating the tallies from below...and adding some new ones.
Amazing mullets - 6 (now 13)
Homeless cats - 326 (infinity)
Homeless dogs - 47 (52)
Homeless people - 4 (still 4)
Glasses of ouzo - 1.4 (4.2...it's better with more water I figured out)
Snickers at myself for driving the White Stallion - 27 or more (28)
Steps climbed - at least 2342
Donkeys ridden - 0
Times I've wanted to ride a donkey - 2
Beaches - 7
Sunburns - 0
Sunsets - 8
Sunrises - 1
Near death experiences - 3
Pictures - infinity
Hope all is well with you!
Cheers -
Genevieve
First, thank you for your emails. It's so nice to read about what's going on at home and to hear that you all hate me. Very reassuring. :)
Today was an excellent day. I spent the morning sleeping (seems I can't get up before 10 AM here) and the day diving. I dove with a Norwiegen (vacation spelling rules) and an Aussie...both very fun divers. It's been a while since I dived (parenthetical expressions, but no, Allie, it's not dove, it's dived....word) last (in Florida when I visited Ann!) so I was a bit nervous. I almost panicked myself to death, but at the end of it was ok. Damn salt water. Get's in your eyes and your nose and your throat and makes you want to surface too fast. But all was well once I told myself that I couldn't afford to die in Greece, so I decided to figure it out instead. And thank God I did, because I just love swimming with the fishes...in a decidedly non-mob sort of way.
I've spent the last several days wandering around the streets, beaches, steps, and hills of Santorini. I've seen some amazing sunsets; met some amazing and finally non-Canadian people; had some amazing wine; and eaten some excellent food. Never have I consumed so much lamb in my life. Or seen so few clouds. Literally, today was my first Greek cloud. Amazing.
Tomorrow I plan to wake up early (maybe 10) and go to the beach. I leave on a ferry bound for Crete at 5pm...and from there it's anyone's guess. I'm getting restless and everything is so close here...so I'm considering Egypt, Turkey, and Italy. I wish there was an easy way to get to all three! But, alas, I may have to narrow it to two of them.
Updating the tallies from below...and adding some new ones.
Amazing mullets - 6 (now 13)
Homeless cats - 326 (infinity)
Homeless dogs - 47 (52)
Homeless people - 4 (still 4)
Glasses of ouzo - 1.4 (4.2...it's better with more water I figured out)
Snickers at myself for driving the White Stallion - 27 or more (28)
Steps climbed - at least 2342
Donkeys ridden - 0
Times I've wanted to ride a donkey - 2
Beaches - 7
Sunburns - 0
Sunsets - 8
Sunrises - 1
Near death experiences - 3
Pictures - infinity
Hope all is well with you!
Cheers -
Genevieve
Saturday, May 12, 2007
Hello from Greece!
Friends & Family...
It's 10PM on Saturday night and I'm killing time before dinner. I'm sitting in a internet cafe in Naxos, Greece, next to Hora's population of under 15-year-old-boys playing some sort of computer game. As much as I'm denying it to myself right now, it looks like a blast. Too bad my Greek is...rusty...or I'd ask to join.
I've spent the last week strolling around Greece. I started in Athens this weekend and spent a couple of amazing days getting lost in the shadow of the Parthenon. I stayed in an area called Plaka, which is littered with shops, tavernas, beautiful Greek people, and stray cats. Actually, this whole country is littered with stray cats (and beautiful Greek people). Not a bad life, actually. Living in the sun, begging lunch from some gawking tourists, sleeping on the hot marble. I have a certain respect for the cats (and the people), as I'm guessing their ancestors have been in Greece for thousands of years. It's hard for me to fathom the amazing amount of history in this country. But, I digress.
Athens was amazing - not the big, dirty city I expected. I also didn't expect to meet more Greeks than tourists...but that's exactly what I did. The first most notable was Mikos/Alexander (a forty-something, rotund Greek storyteller), who 'saw me wandering around the Parthenon earlier' and asked me for a drink. Or dinner. Or to take me around the islands in his private jet. Or to marry him. Which brings me to my second favorite - Harold from Chicago. Harold could sell ice to an eskimo and he successfully got rid of Mikos/Alexander. I did get Mikos/Alexander's card, however, which certifies him as a V.I.P. If only I'd known. My favorite moment in Athens was wandering around the city until the sun came up with some Greeks looking to practice their English. They showed me the city that the tourists don't see and bought me a Heineken; I helped them with their slang and taught them swear words. (I've got to figure out how to market that experience.) The night ended with fireworks from an unknown square about 3km away...apparently the Greeks won a big basketball tournament and the city was celebrating. It was a happy day for all of us.
I left Athens and headed to the port town of Rafina. I took a ferry to Mykanos, where I headed to the beach town of Ornos (about 3km from the port center). I stayed at a beautiful, family run hotel and relaxed away a couple of days. I swam in the ocean (I think it's the Aegean here, but now that I write that - spelled incorrectly I'm sure - it doesn't sound right). Regardless, it was cold. The stray cats watched me curiously from the beach. I think it's the only time I've been without one constantly at my heels. Thanks to that thought, I'm now cracking myself up thinking of a stray cat swimming at my heels in the ocean. Another thing to figure out how to recreate.
Left Mykanos, on to Naxos, which brings us to the present. I rented a car (which I've named 'The White Stallion' for it's sheer power and size) today and drove almost the entire circumference of the island. It was unbelievable. Not only was it some of the best three cylinder driving I've ever done, it also was jawdroppingly (dictionary of Genevieve) beautiful. I so wish I could upload pictures to this computer - it was some of the most awesome country I've ever seen. I think I'm going to call Mikos/Alexander and ask him to buy me a pension in northern Naxos. He should be able to hook that up, being a V.I.P and all.
Tomorrow, headed on to Santorini (possibly stopping off in Ios, but I really want to get to Istanbul before I leave this area, so I'm trying to hustle). Then Crete for a few days...hopefully including some diving, and then hopefully north.
A few random observations:
1) It's amazing what happens when you smile at someone. Silence. Anger. Hesitant smiles back. Subconcious tightening of fingers around wallets or handbags. I've made a constant decision to smile more if only to make other people wonder what I'm hiding. At least the kids like it. And the 80 year old men.
2) I cannot get away from Canadians. They're everywhere. They follow me oot and aboot and I have no idea why. Maybe it's in the water, eh? (Bad writing, but they're all over this place...and most of them hate Americans. Go figure!)
2A) I've only met one other American couple. Very pleasant. Much less intrusive than the Canooks.
3) Greek food rules.
4) Greek music does not rule.
5) Middle aged Greek men following me around each city also do(es) not rule. (Don't worry, they're harmless - mostly just annoying.)
And finally, a few tallies:
Amazing mullets - 6
Homeless cats - 326
Homeless dogs - 47
Homeless people - 4
Glasses of ouzo - 1.4
Snickers at myself for driving the White Stallion - 27 or more
Hope all is well with
It's 10PM on Saturday night and I'm killing time before dinner. I'm sitting in a internet cafe in Naxos, Greece, next to Hora's population of under 15-year-old-boys playing some sort of computer game. As much as I'm denying it to myself right now, it looks like a blast. Too bad my Greek is...rusty...or I'd ask to join.
I've spent the last week strolling around Greece. I started in Athens this weekend and spent a couple of amazing days getting lost in the shadow of the Parthenon. I stayed in an area called Plaka, which is littered with shops, tavernas, beautiful Greek people, and stray cats. Actually, this whole country is littered with stray cats (and beautiful Greek people). Not a bad life, actually. Living in the sun, begging lunch from some gawking tourists, sleeping on the hot marble. I have a certain respect for the cats (and the people), as I'm guessing their ancestors have been in Greece for thousands of years. It's hard for me to fathom the amazing amount of history in this country. But, I digress.
Athens was amazing - not the big, dirty city I expected. I also didn't expect to meet more Greeks than tourists...but that's exactly what I did. The first most notable was Mikos/Alexander (a forty-something, rotund Greek storyteller), who 'saw me wandering around the Parthenon earlier' and asked me for a drink. Or dinner. Or to take me around the islands in his private jet. Or to marry him. Which brings me to my second favorite - Harold from Chicago. Harold could sell ice to an eskimo and he successfully got rid of Mikos/Alexander. I did get Mikos/Alexander's card, however, which certifies him as a V.I.P. If only I'd known. My favorite moment in Athens was wandering around the city until the sun came up with some Greeks looking to practice their English. They showed me the city that the tourists don't see and bought me a Heineken; I helped them with their slang and taught them swear words. (I've got to figure out how to market that experience.) The night ended with fireworks from an unknown square about 3km away...apparently the Greeks won a big basketball tournament and the city was celebrating. It was a happy day for all of us.
I left Athens and headed to the port town of Rafina. I took a ferry to Mykanos, where I headed to the beach town of Ornos (about 3km from the port center). I stayed at a beautiful, family run hotel and relaxed away a couple of days. I swam in the ocean (I think it's the Aegean here, but now that I write that - spelled incorrectly I'm sure - it doesn't sound right). Regardless, it was cold. The stray cats watched me curiously from the beach. I think it's the only time I've been without one constantly at my heels. Thanks to that thought, I'm now cracking myself up thinking of a stray cat swimming at my heels in the ocean. Another thing to figure out how to recreate.
Left Mykanos, on to Naxos, which brings us to the present. I rented a car (which I've named 'The White Stallion' for it's sheer power and size) today and drove almost the entire circumference of the island. It was unbelievable. Not only was it some of the best three cylinder driving I've ever done, it also was jawdroppingly (dictionary of Genevieve) beautiful. I so wish I could upload pictures to this computer - it was some of the most awesome country I've ever seen. I think I'm going to call Mikos/Alexander and ask him to buy me a pension in northern Naxos. He should be able to hook that up, being a V.I.P and all.
Tomorrow, headed on to Santorini (possibly stopping off in Ios, but I really want to get to Istanbul before I leave this area, so I'm trying to hustle). Then Crete for a few days...hopefully including some diving, and then hopefully north.
A few random observations:
1) It's amazing what happens when you smile at someone. Silence. Anger. Hesitant smiles back. Subconcious tightening of fingers around wallets or handbags. I've made a constant decision to smile more if only to make other people wonder what I'm hiding. At least the kids like it. And the 80 year old men.
2) I cannot get away from Canadians. They're everywhere. They follow me oot and aboot and I have no idea why. Maybe it's in the water, eh? (Bad writing, but they're all over this place...and most of them hate Americans. Go figure!)
2A) I've only met one other American couple. Very pleasant. Much less intrusive than the Canooks.
3) Greek food rules.
4) Greek music does not rule.
5) Middle aged Greek men following me around each city also do(es) not rule. (Don't worry, they're harmless - mostly just annoying.)
And finally, a few tallies:
Amazing mullets - 6
Homeless cats - 326
Homeless dogs - 47
Homeless people - 4
Glasses of ouzo - 1.4
Snickers at myself for driving the White Stallion - 27 or more
Hope all is well with
Monday, May 7, 2007
Athens
Arrived in Athens yesterday, Sunday, after a long and unventful flight from JFK. Took a bit of a detour on the train trip to the city center...but arrived in the Plaka district (very close to the Acropolis and the Parliament) unscathed. Turns out there's some huge european sports action that happened in Athens this weekend, which is why I wasn't able to find a hotel before I came. Rest easy - the Greeks won and there was much celebration complete with fireworks and debauchery.
When I got off the train in Athens, I stopped into a few places and after the initial disappointment of not being able to stay in the place run by three late 20s Aussie male models, I found a nice hotel very close to everything. I immediately crawled into bed for a quick nap.
I wasn't able to sleep on the plane, so my cat nap turned into a 6 hour slumber. I awoke just in time for sunset, so I hiked to the top of the Acropolis and watched the sun setting over Athens. I went into a square near my hotel to find some dinner and had lamb with lemons and fried cheese, as well as some a glass of nice Greek wine. I didn't even realize it, but I spent 3 1/2 hours sitting in the square, eating dinner, chatting with the waiters and my new friend Harold & his wife from Chicago. The food was amazing and the people watching was even better.
Stayed up too late last night with a few Greek folks that I met at the restaurant. They took me around the city and showed me a few of the lesser known sites that I would never have found myself. Excellent company, excellent night.
Just found another hotel for this evening and plan to spend the day wandering around Athens and taking pictures. I'm hoping to leave to Piraeus (port town south west of Athens) in the morning to catch a ferry to some islands. Still figuring out my exact itinerary, but I know that I want to go to Crete and Rhodes, which are pretty far away...hopefully I can make it to Istanbul for a couple of nights as well!
Off to get some lunch.
Cheers!
When I got off the train in Athens, I stopped into a few places and after the initial disappointment of not being able to stay in the place run by three late 20s Aussie male models, I found a nice hotel very close to everything. I immediately crawled into bed for a quick nap.
I wasn't able to sleep on the plane, so my cat nap turned into a 6 hour slumber. I awoke just in time for sunset, so I hiked to the top of the Acropolis and watched the sun setting over Athens. I went into a square near my hotel to find some dinner and had lamb with lemons and fried cheese, as well as some a glass of nice Greek wine. I didn't even realize it, but I spent 3 1/2 hours sitting in the square, eating dinner, chatting with the waiters and my new friend Harold & his wife from Chicago. The food was amazing and the people watching was even better.
Stayed up too late last night with a few Greek folks that I met at the restaurant. They took me around the city and showed me a few of the lesser known sites that I would never have found myself. Excellent company, excellent night.
Just found another hotel for this evening and plan to spend the day wandering around Athens and taking pictures. I'm hoping to leave to Piraeus (port town south west of Athens) in the morning to catch a ferry to some islands. Still figuring out my exact itinerary, but I know that I want to go to Crete and Rhodes, which are pretty far away...hopefully I can make it to Istanbul for a couple of nights as well!
Off to get some lunch.
Cheers!
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